Known for using the world’s finest fabrics, Zegna closed this edition of Milan men’s fashion week with a collection that celebrated its premier merino wool, Vellus Aureum (the name is inspired by the mythical story of the Golden Fleece). The brand’s founder Ermenegildo Zegna launched the Wool Trophy Awards in 1963, introduced to recognise the efforts of Australian sheep farmers in producing top-tier fleece. 

The show took place in a convention centre on the outskirts of Milan that was dramatically turned into a serene, hilly landscape. The soft bleating of sheep offered a peaceful escape, evoking the lush pastures of the southern hemisphere.

On the catwalk, Alessandro Sartori’s signature soft tailoring was complemented by a nostalgic flair: an abundance of houndstooth and Prince of Wales patterns unfolded across generously proportioned suits and voluminous overcoats. The warm colour palette, including caramel, beige and dark chocolate, reinforced the vintage feel of the looks.

‘The man I have in mind has raided a wardrobe where pieces have been collected over the decades, valued for their emotional and material significance,’ says the artistic director.

Through two-buttoned, boxy jackets featuring extra-roomy pockets and enveloping knitted cardigans, a sense of ease came to life. ‘There is something quintessentially Torinese about this collection, in the cultured attitude the shapes suggest and the insouciant manner in which they are worn. It’s a particular way of being Italian,’ added Sartori at the end of the show.

This season, heritage served as a key source of inspiration for Pal Zileri, too. The tailoring brand – founded in Vicenza in 1983 by Gruppo Forall with the goal of popularising men’s formalwear – ventured into the archives without being too literal. At the brand’s showroom near San Babila, the presentation featured entirely unlined double-breasted blazers from its Brera line, crafted from ultra-light wool, alongside more fitted jackets inspired by the signature Vicenza style, showcasing retro-inspired patterns.

‘We asked our suppliers to reinterpret our archive fabrics in a contemporary way, with weights and performances suited to the needs of the modern man,’ said Pal Zileri CEO Leo Scordo as he walked Brummell through the collection. ‘Combed, carded and rugged-looking wools borrowed from the world of hunting, zibellino cashmere that adds a touch of discreet luxury to jackets and coats and knitwear made with thick, maritime-inspired yarns.’

Similarly, Slowear – the label specialising in menswear essentials – aimed to strike a balance between innovation and legacy with a collection dubbed the New Modern. The Venetian house brought together its four specialist labels – Incotex, Zanone, Montedoro and Glanshirt – under a single brand. The goal is ‘to consolidate our identity first and foremost but also to communicate our values of authenticity more effectively,’ CEO Piero Braga told us.

Highlights from the collection included the Travel Pack, a capsule of wardrobe staples designed for life on the go. It features five styles of trouser paired with a blazer, a double-breasted jacket, an overshirt and a bomber jacket, all crafted from the same fabric and in a unified colour palette.