There is no doubt the fashion men’s market has seen a gradual simplification of its styles. Softer fabrics and relaxed cuts are the main ingredients of hybrid garments, designed to be worn both in the office and during downtime at the weekend.

“Smartorial” might be the word of the moment, however, this approach is nothing new to Incotex, Zanone, Montedoro and Glanshirt, the four brands under the Slowear umbrella, as the group has designed menswear essentials for over 70 years. For the autumn/winter 2023 collection, the Venice-based apparel group opted for a clean and streamlined aesthetic across its four lines.

Started in 1951 as a supplier of workers’ and military uniforms, Incotex is the first project of the Italian high-end fashion company to showcase tailored trousers, which easily move between formal and leisure. The latest addition this season is the new balloon fit, a softer cut which assures elegance with its double front pleat.

Specialising in ultra-fine knitwear in premium materials, Zanone has refreshed its distinctive clean design with the launch of the La Tigre capsule collection. The eponymous Milanese graphic design studio came up with nine unique pieces crafted in ultra-light merino wool and featuring colourful geometric motifs inspired by the most popular 20th-century architectural movements.

Combining unstructured finesse with a functional and neat frame, the overshirt has become the most sought-after piece of the season. Glanshirt – the shirtmaker in the Slowear stable – presented this cult piece in velvet, wool and cotton, adding its signature vintage-like style.

Elsewhere, Montedoro crafts timeless yet comfortable outerwear combining traditional tailoring with functional modernity. The brand introduced a new interpretation of the field jacket designed by Italian designer and illustrator Walter Albini. Starting from an archive sketch, the garment has been updated with the use of technical fabrics and extra padding to secure a utilitarian flair. Equipped with a pioneering and forward-looking spirit, Albini played a key role in the launch of “Made in Italy”: not only was he one of the first designers to hold a fashion show in Milan in the early ’70s, but he also understood the power of the total look, revolutionising the role of the fashion designer.