Morning dress has long been the uniform of distinction – steeped in tradition and forever tied to the grandest of British occasions – yet few understand its nuances better than Oliver Brown. 

Based in London’s Chelsea and an official licensee for Royal Ascot, the luxury menswear brand has been the quiet authority on occasion wear since 1998. From society weddings to the Royal Enclosure, Oliver Brown has dressed generations of men for their most important moments. And while its top hats remain a fixture of the season, the new morning wear collection proves the brand’s sartorial expertise extends far beyond headwear, offering a masterclass in elegance for those preparing for a season of weddings and Ascot appearances.

At the heart of the collection are Oliver Brown’s impeccably tailored morning coats. The classic black barathea, crafted from pure wool, remains a staple, while styles in black herringbone and plain navy continue to be perennial favourites. For those seeking added texture and warmth, a cashmere-blend option introduces a layer of understated luxury. The return of the Highgrove morning suit is a standout. A masterclass in subtle refinement, the suit is distinguished by a detachable white slip in the waistcoat – a small but striking detail that adds crisp definition to the ensemble.

But it’s the seasonal additions that really elevate the offering. As much as Oliver Brown honours the formality of morning dress, it’s also unafraid to modernise. As owner Kristian Robson puts it, ‘We start with heritage. Always. Morning dress is steeped in tradition, and we’ve never been interested in reinventing it just for the sake of it. But we do believe in making it work beautifully for the modern wearer.’

Most notable is a new Fresco wool morning coat, made from a 9oz cloth woven by Huddersfield Fine Worsteds. Lightweight and breathable, it’s ideal for high-summer occasions. ‘We are very excited to work with Fresco wool,’ says Robson. ‘It’s one of those fabrics that truly lives up to its reputation… ideal for hot summer days when you still want to look sharp and well turned out.’

Elsewhere, elegance continues in the details. New silk waistcoats, made with cloth supplied by Bennett Silks, come in a refined range of pastels such as pale blue, peachy pink and sage green. ‘All the colours have been carefully chosen to pair effortlessly with any of our morning coats and trousers, offering flexibility without compromising on formality,’ explains Robson. Available in two weights, a slightly heavier structured herringbone and a featherlight spun silk, the waistcoats are thoughtfully designed to suit the season, keeping things cool and comfortable even when the champagne’s flowing.

And, of course, no morning suit would be complete without the crowning jewel. Oliver Brown’s antique silk top hats remain the pièce de résistance – the world’s largest collection, curated by Robson himself.

The new morning wear collection is available both online and in store. Whether you’re stepping out for a wedding, the races or a special formal occasion, Oliver Brown ensures you do so with the same calm assurance as generations before you. Because when tradition looks this good, you don’t need to rewrite the rulebook, you just need to wear it well.

oliverbrownlondon.com