Next level

The President’s Knit is one of Stone Island’s most important garments. Just ask its chairman. It was named after him

Style 27 Jan 2025

Stone Island President's Knit Jacket

The President's Knit, £1,650, Stone Island

If the Stone Island story isn’t being already taught on Strategic Brand Management courses, then someone is missing a trick. It’s hard to think of another clothing brand that’s built such a successful and enduring business, while remaining at the forefront of the cultural conversation. The Italian menswear specialist’s unique blend of fashion, innovation and subcultural influence makes that look easy, though you suspect it’s been anything but.

Stone Island has been leading innovation in fabric development for four decades, with experiments in dyeing techniques, reflective textiles and heat-sensitive materials. Its Ice Jacket, which used thermochromic liquid crystals, and its Shadow Project line, with its modular and adaptable features including detachable liners and pockets, are now on display in the Westminster Menswear Archive, and with good reason. It excels at branding – its compass badge is one of the most distinctive logos in all of fashion. Meanwhile, the foothold it gained in British football terrace culture in the 1980s and 1990s, where its tough, durable outwear with military inspirations was snapped up by fans, gave it a street cred that still resonates decades later.

In 2024 it is arguably the one brand that can unite the American psychedelic soul artist Frank Ocean, the English footballer Raheem Sterling and Britpop’s Liam Gallagher. And for a “casual streetwear label” its demographic is impressively wide. Either that, or its customers have been getting smaller. ‘It has broadened in the last 15 years,’ the brand’s chairman Carlo Rivetti tells Brummell. ‘In 2008 our most popular size was XL. A few years later it had become M. This means that younger demographics were hooked by Stone Island, but also women. What I like about it is that it happened organically, and that customers my age [68] are still with us.’

Carlo Rivetti, Stone Island’s chairman

A continued emphasis on innovation surely helped. This winter one of Stone Island’s key pieces is its classic The President’s Knit. As with other items in the brand’s inventory, it is clothing that’s both clever and practical. The President’s Knit is essentially a rain jacket, and a jumper combined – the former inside the latter. ‘The knit department in the company is very competitive and wanted to challenge, with my blessing, our famous “cut and sew” operations,’ Rivetti explains. ‘So, we made a cotton chenille knit outer shell and the inside [we put] our staple design sheer nylon detachable goose-down lining.’ The result was cosy – though not everyone at Stone Island had warm feelings towards it. ‘The price was outrageous for a “cotton knit” and when our commercial end moaned about it, I got angry, threw the jacket on the floor and said, “You won’t find another piece like this on the market at a lower price, it is worth every penny!”,’ Rivetti recalls. It’s the boss’s tantrum that gives the garment its name. ‘They started to call it “Maglia del Presidente” – the President’s Knit,’ he says. ‘And it remains a staple piece of our heritage today.’

Indeed, Rivetti can be seen proudly modelling it in the most recent advertising campaign.

The President’s Knit is complete with a detachable liner

Three years ago, Stone Island became part of Moncler, in a deal that allowed both brands to leverage each other’s strengths in the luxury market. When asked how he sees the future of the company panning out – in 2025, and beyond – Rivetti shows some of restless spirit that has kept pushing it forward for so long. ‘I am known to be a dreamer and a driver of energy, deep inside I am still a kid,’ he says. ‘[Even though] my kids and nephews are now between 30 and 40, and Stone Island is 42. I will always be its biggest supporter and driver.’

The President’s Knit, £1,650; stoneisland.com