Footloose

In pursuit of the comfort we’ve become accustomed to recently, Northampton’s leading cordwainers are bringing a softer approach

Style 27 Mar 2022

Make a style statement in comfort with the Greenfield cashmere-lined suede loafer, £690, from Church's

Make a style statement in comfort with the Greenfield cashmere-lined suede loafer, £690, from Church's

Anyone who takes an interest in being well shod will know the virtues of Northampton-made footwear: time-honoured craft skills, durability and enduring aesthetics that resist seasonal shifts in taste. In short, the sort of footwear that’s indispensable for a working wardrobe. But since the onset of a global health crisis, chances are, you’ve likely swapped office desk for kitchen table, with your Oxfords relegated to gathering dust in the corner. After all, no one sees your slippers on Microsoft Teams.

The pandemic has certainly played a part in the dressing down of the prescribed order, but a lace-less revolution was already gathering pace according to James Fox, head of marketing at cordwainer Crockett & Jones. ‘We were seeing an ever-increasing demand for loafers even before Covid – it’s part of the on-going casualisation of menswear,’ he explains. In response to this collective ease in dressing, the brand not only dialled up its loafer output, but also introduced its Superflex sole range, which has been expanded for spring/summer 22, across loafers and boots. The sole – two years in development – makes a supremely supple shoe that feels seasoned straight out of the box. In addition, it offers improved impact absorbency and grip, owing to the precision waxing and tanning techniques involved.

Crockett & Jones Salcombe loafer
Crockett & Jones Salcombe loafer

Similarly, Edward Green, which has been in the luxury shoemaking game since 1890, had also seen a shift towards more unstructured styles and acted accordingly: 2021 saw a lightweight, unlined construction integrated into its signature Piccadilly loafer and it is now debuting the style in Delapré leather – a hide that has been vegetable-dye tanned and steeped in natural oils to create an exceptionally soft and pliable upper. ‘There’s been real growth in this category as people generally look for comfort, softer lines, less structure and appreciate the tactility of materials,’ explains Euan Denholm, head of brand and business development at Edward Green. But for sheer comfort, its Polperro loafer is strides ahead. ‘They aren’t Goodyear welted and so are far lighter but, of course, are still Northamptonmade to ensure quality. The baby calf suede upper is incredibly light and has the comfort of a slipper with a glove-like fit,’ explains Denholm.

Edward Green Polperro loafer
Edward Green Polperro loafer

As a subsidiary of the Prada Group, Church’s – in business since 1873 – has a fashionable ace up its sleeve, which results in a more forward-thinking approach that gives its shoes grail status with footwear aficionados from Helsinki to Hong Kong. Case in point is its new Greenfield loafer – although undeniably athletic in profile, it still errs on the smarter side of the shoe rack, but crucially, has all the comfort of the plushest court shoe. The upper, made from buttery-soft suede, sculpts to the shape of your feet, while the off-white cushioned rubber sole chimes perfectly with the current sporty mood of menswear. If that doesn’t convince you to give your slippers a sojourn, it’s also lined with cashmere, so you’ll feel like you’re walking on clouds – even if you’ve just popped out for a pint of milk between Teams meetings.

Salcombe Ocean suede loafer, £375, crockettandjones.com; Polperro sage calf suede loafer, £475, edwardgreen.com