Given Britain’s notoriously damp weather and a summer that usually lasts for a fleeting moment, it’s little wonder that the social calendar at this time is chock full of events – which invariably require a specific mode of dress to pass muster. ‘Luckily, with British occasions, we have a kind of rule book and a series of codes that can be tapped into, which is actually very useful. It’s a clear guideline as to what to wear, whether you are attending Royal Ascot, a racquet tournament or a wedding,’ explains Simon Holloway, creative director of Dunhill – one the UK’s most storied menswear houses that has been quietly setting the standard of British dress that the rest of the world follows.

While Dunhill, which started out as a saddle maker in 1893 and later became known for its plush formalwear made from rarefied fabrics, has a sense of sartorial tradition, its Spring/Summer 25 occasion wear is far from old hat. Holloway, who took the creative reigns at the house in 2023, blends a refined classicism that won’t put purists’ noses out of joint, with discreet modern flourishes and treatments to bring a fresh feel to established designs without shouting about it. 

Cloths for the range of morning suits, lounge suits and evening wear were developed with heritage mills in Somerset, Yorkshire and Italy, which collectively have centuries of expertise in weaving fabrics suited to changeable summer climes, wherever you are in the world. A colour palette of pastel Burleigh blue with pops of coral red bring a summery feel to the offering, while classic navy, greys, ivory and British tan maintain the hallmark subtle elegance of the brand. 

The Bourdon suit, named after the London house which is Dunhill’s flagship store, for instance, is made from an airy tropical weight wool in a spring-appropriate pale grey, to keep your temperature on an even keel when you’re in a sunny enclosure, but also blends in a touch of cashmere for a refinement you’ll feel as soon as you slip it on. Its Cavendish jacket – made from linen woven in a classic Glen check is also a masterclass in formalwear to beat the heat. Another highlight, the driving jacket – which nods to Dunhill’s long ties to motoring – is made from a double-faced linen, cleverly engineered with water-resistant treatment to combat any rogue showers that materialise. 

Accessories, which include handmade umbrellas with pewter animal head toppers, add a practical, natty flourish to the collection’s looks and allude to an age when everyday accessories were objets d’art in their own right. And this season sees the debut of the Davies sneaker – a comfort-first hybrid design blending elements of driving and trail shoes that are dressy enough to pair with tailoring.

For events after cocktail hour, Holloway suggests honing in on the right fabrics. ‘Summer eveningwear in heavy, stiff fabrics are uncomfortable, especially when you’re partially outdoors. Look for tailoring in lightweight fabrics.’ The collection’s fluid ivory wool-cotton jacket and lightweight midnight blue mohair-blend dinner jackets fit the bill to a tee. ‘Also steer clear of pre-tied bow ties. They look stuck on. Learn to tie your own – there are plenty of tutorials on YouTube to show you how and it will look far more refined.’ 

And if you’re bound for the Royal Enclosure, there’s a particularly apt reference to tap. ‘The men of the royal family are a benchmark of how to put that together,’ says Holloway. ‘The most important thing after your morning suit are the haberdashery items – look at what King Charles or Prince William, wear – often a striped shirt with a white collar and tie with a polka dot or fine stripe to bring a touch of colour to the equation. This should be coordinated with the colour of your waistcoat,’ explains Holloway. ‘Also invest in the best black toe Oxford shoes that your money can buy – you don’t want a cheap black shoe with morning dress,’ he adds. ‘Above all, just don’t get too clever with it. Stick to the tried and tested and you can’t go wrong.’ And given that the Dunhill sense of style is showing sartorial fluency without being spectacle, that’s sound advice. 

dunhill.com