WORDS
Antonino Biondo
On the last day of Milan Fashion Week, Giorgio Armani hosted his autumn/winter 2023 menswear show in the small theatre in the basement of Via Borgonuovo 21 – the 17th-century building where his brand has long been headquartered.

Icy white and silver marble dominated the scene, but there was also an immediate feeling of warmth and intimacy. The venue was transformed into the atrium of a noble palazzo – similar to the ones in the aristocratic houses in the surrounding Montenapoleone neighbourhood – and embodied a quintessentially Milanese take on luxury (in other words: discreet).
Italian composer Ludovico Einaudi’s melancholic yet reassuring music soundtracked the models’ slow runway walk, which exuded a sense of calm.

Ultra-soft wools, cashmere and alpaca tailoring amplified Armani’s deconstructed yet extremely refined approach to menswear. Richly textured cargo trousers were styled with a black velour vest, slightly padded beige blazer and a silky Ascot tie around the neck, while a pair of logo-embossed leather gloves and vintage-inspired sunglasses energised the look. And then an explosion of red animated the recently launched skiwear line, Giorgio Armani Neve, which featured sleek sportswear and cosy après-ski essentials.

Elsewhere, velvet – in green, midnight black or navy – featured throughout the collection and notably in the sophisticated eveningwear that closed the show. It was, perhaps, a nod to shimmering old-money elegance, while sneakers and bomber jackets, which also appeared throughout, spoke to a younger audience. The looks were graciously pared back but never muted, showcasing Mr Armani’s dedication to his brand’s wardrobe archetypes.