WORDS
Nicholas Ross
Imagine walking in the Sahara Desert in stultifying heat. What breeze there is whips about like fire. You stagger towards a Bedouin campsite, where a nomad offers you a hot drink and to dress you from head to toe in black robes. ‘Trust me,’ he says, ‘these things will keep you cool.’
If you aren’t already aware of the efficacy of these suggestions, they might make you raise an eyebrow. So, too, might the idea of merino wool swimsuits designed for summer living.
Thankfully, however, French swimwear brand Vilebrequin has always been willing to navigate unfamiliar territory in the name of excellent craftsmanship. Founder Fred Prysquel was using innovative materials to create swimming trunks over 50 years ago, upcycling everything from sailcloth to tea towels.
In the same tradition, it has just released a five-piece capsule collection featuring swimsuits in extra-fine merino wool. And believe it or not, they’re perfect for the beach.
It turns out that worsted merino wool fibres woven at high densities form a water-friendly, quick-drying shell. With a drying time of about five minutes, the trunks are highly breathable, moisture wicking and thermo-regulating. Not to mention that they protect you from UV light.
Working with renowned Italian wool mill Reda, Vilebrequin’s CEO Roland Herlory has found himself amazed by the merino. ‘It has a remarkable quality and hangs on the body in a naturally chic way,’ he enthuses. ‘It’s the perfect example of eco-innovation, a fabric that’s both cutting-edge and uniquely elegant.’
Indeed, this collection has proved that the world of fabrics remains as worthy of exploration as those warmer climes for which it was curated. Not only are its innovative trunks tailored for the climates of sunny paradises but for their sophisticated aesthetics, too.
The Super 120s merino cloth is a very soft, fine grade which adds a notably polished look to all five styles: light grey, navy, classic gingham and two others.
These include a safari-inspired khaki and the collection’s standout: the Prince of Wales check. This pattern originated in Scottish hunting grounds and was popularised by King Edward VIII, yet it also looks stunning against blue water.
As Martine Moutet, Vilebrequin’s collection director, comments, ‘Tomorrow’s designs will blur the lines between swimwear and ready-to-wear, with a more functional approach, making them easy to translate from beach to city culture – and vice versa. They’ll essentially be lightweight, with a real emphasis on technical, eco-friendly fabrics.’
Like the materials Prysquel upcycled so many decades ago, this non-mulesed merino wool is also ethically sourced and environmentally friendly. It is, in fact, the most reused and recycled of all common apparel fibres.
While making the swimsuits in this collection, Vilebrequin was greatly inspired by the traditional methods used in suit tailoring, from weaving and pattern cutting to pocket placement. Producing each one took an average of 32 steps. But it’s clear this was more than worth it.