WORDS
Imogen Almond
Can you tell us about your journey into the food industry and what led you to your current position as chef and restaurateur at Rosa’s Thai?
Cooking and hospitality have always been in my blood. I grew up in Khao Kho, northern Thailand, where I learned to cook using ingredients from my parents’ farm. By the time I was 16, I had already opened a noodle shop in front of my parents’ home. That’s where it all began.
When I was 18, I left Thailand to move to Hong Kong and work as a nanny. I continued to cook for my employers and friends, and when I was 20, I opened a noodle soup shop in a local grocery store. This grew into a Thai takeaway, and eventually, a sit-down restaurant called Tuk Tuk Thai.
In 2006, I moved to London with my husband Alex to be closer to his family and began catering for offices in the City. We started a market stall on Brick Lane in 2007, which became the stepping-stone to our first brick-and-mortar site on Hanbury Street. We kept the name of the old Italian café that stood there, out of respect for the area (and because we didn’t have enough money for a new sign).
After selling our house in Hong Kong, we expanded to our second site in Soho and were lucky that an opportunity for a third branch in Westfield Stratford came up just in time for the London Olympics. We continued to grow steadily, opening sites all around London and eventually across the UK. It’s been quite the journey!

Where do you draw inspiration from when creating new recipes or dishes?
I’m always mixing and matching different ingredients with techniques. I get most of my inspiration when I go back to Khao Kho and see what the people in my hometown are cooking. They use seasonal ingredients that grow locally, so there’s always an element of innovation in their dishes. Big events like weddings, house blessings and monk blessings involve food, and I’m always on the lookout for ideas.
What’s a common misconception about Thai food you’d love to correct?
That it’s packed with sugar. Thai food used to be a lot sweeter, with sugar cane and palm sugar used liberally in curries, pad Thai and drinks. But there’s a growing focus on health, so sugar is being used less and less. The palm sugar we use in Thai food is actually less processed and has more nutrients since it comes directly from the palm tree.

Who are your role models in business or food? How have they shaped your career?
The first person who hired me to work in a restaurant in Kowloon City, Hong Kong – her name was Jay Long. She was a Thai lady who owned a grocery store and Thai restaurant. She was incredibly business-savvy and a great cook. She taught me how to make the most of ingredients and how to run a profitable kitchen.
Have you faced any particular challenges as a female entrepreneur in the food industry, and how did you navigate them?
As a woman, I find it’s hard to advocate for ourselves because confidence is often seen as arrogance. It’s a fine line and difficult to navigate. I had to really step up and learn how to present myself to get what I wanted.

What do you think still needs to change in the business world to better support women founders and chefs?
There’s still a long way to go in making the business world truly supportive of women founders and chefs, especially in the restaurant industry. One major challenge is being taken seriously in a space that is historically led by men, this is especially true in kitchens.
We need to value different leadership styles. A lot of us, myself included, lead with empathy and community. Those strengths deserve just as much respect.
What advice would you give to women looking to break into the industry?
Use what you’re good at to your advantage. You’ve got to have confidence and believe in yourself. No-one else will make it happen for you, so you have to start today and keep going until you get it.

What’s your favourite dish served at Rosa’s Thai?
If I had to choose, it would be pad kra prow pork belly (extra spicy) with a fried egg on top. Chilli and basil stir-fry is a real comfort food for a lot of Thais.
What’s next for Saiphin Moore and Rosa’s Thai?
As co-founder of Rosa’s Thai, I am still closely involved in the food development and quality to make sure it lives up to the Rosa’s name. I am also busy consulting on smaller restaurant brands, alongside this.
At Rosa’s, we’re continuing to open restaurants across the UK. I’ve just got back from Dubai where we’ve opened our second international site. To see it grow from a Brick Lane stall to over 45 restaurants is just incredible. I’m excited to still be part of it.
Fancy winning a £100 gift voucher to spend at Rosa’s Thai? Head over to our Instagram page, @brummellmag, for full details.