WORDS
Chris Madigan
If we’re honest with ourselves, whisky enthusiasts and collectors can, on the very rare occasion, to an ever so tiny extent, be ever so slightly… pretentious. (OK, we are frequently very pretentious.) ‘I really enjoy the burnt rubber/medicinal iodine/linseed oil/wax floor polish notes,’ we’ll claim. But, really, are these the flavours we genuinely want to round off an evening? Or would we secretly like our favourite dram to taste like pudding?
Now, there is a high-end, collectible set of single malts that mean we don’t have to sneak off for a shameful slug of Drambuie to satisfy our sweet tooth: The Singleton Gourmand Collection. And the whiskies have been created by a recognised master of malts, Dr Craig Wilson, so you get to maintain your credibility while revelling in completely indulgent whiskies.
The Singleton Gourmand Collection is inspired, presumably, by indecision on the arrival of the dessert trolley, as it has ended up (in a way this writer finds familiar) as a trio of treats but “only a small portion” of each. Actually, that means three 50cl bottles instead of the usual 75cl, so it is definitely indulgence.

The three are all 42YO single malts from the Glen Ord distillery on the Black Isle (ironically, The Singleton can be from one of three distilleries at Dufftown, Glendullan or Glen Ord). A 1981-distilled batch of 12YO casks was divided to undergo different second maturations that were, unusually, a lot longer than the first one – 29 years, to be precise. These created ingredients that would take the profile towards the sweet course. It was Wilson’s blending skill that ensured they are different enough – American oak for vanilla and creaminess; European oak for a touch of spice; more PX sherry for nutty richness etc. Then he introduced a third and final phase – a wine-cask finish (although, instead of a “finish”, we should perhaps call this “afters”) to steer it towards an instantly recognisable dish. The Singleton is calling this method “cask layering” – but these whiskies are no mere trifles.
For Notes of Fig & Chocolate Ganache, the second phase was in new and sweet sherry-seasoned European oak, before a final marrying in a heavily toasted garnacha red wine cask from the Spanish Priorat DOQ to add spices and juicy berries. The Notes of Caramelised Crème Brûlée whisky soaked up the creamy richness of new European oak casks, as well as spicy and vanilla notes of American casks, before some ripe fruit notes were taken from ex-grand cru chardonnay casks. Finally, the Notes of Black Cherry Gâteau combines cream and chocolate notes gathered from American oak casks, some spice and berries from a European oak cask. Those were blended then hit with full-on dark cherry oomph from afters in an ex-Amarone cask.

There are only 136 sets of the trio available globally (£8,800, 3x50cl bottles), and be warned – The Singleton has a huge cult following in Asia, and that market also loves sweeter whiskies. However, Justerini & Brooks does have access to the Gourmand. And, more than that, is hosting a unique tasting at its Burlington Arcade boutique next week. The Singleton has invited Nicolas Rouzaud, a master pâtissier of the very type Wilson was trying to emulate – currently ruining diets at The Connaught – to create three cakes to pair with the whiskies. Each showcases his light touch and ability to reinterpret French and other European classics. The Singleton Gourmand x Nicolas Rouzaud Experience takes around two hours, including welcome champagne, a tour of the boutique and guided tasting of both the whiskies and cakes. (And, if you do the maths, it’s actually the most economical way to taste these whiskies!)
Tastings of The Singleton Gourmand, with take place daily from 2pm, Monday 28 April to Monday 5 May 2025, at 41 Burlington Arcade. £550 for two people, bookable via Eventbrite or at justerinis.com