The most recent in London City Island’s series of Penthouse Conversations included a tasting which began the moment guests arrived. On the 25th floor of Corson House, staff from The Lockdown Room restaurant presented trays of refreshing non-alcoholic drinks with the appearance of wines – white, red, and rosé.

Emanating citrusy, fruity notes, these were the aromatic creations of one of the evening’s speakers: eponymous founder of Jukes Cordialities and renowned wine writer, Matthew Jukes. Joining him on the panel was the founder of award-winning Wanderlust Wine, Richard Ellison. Wine consultant and columnist Libby Brodie moderated the discussion panel. Before approaching the main theme of the night – the new modern classics of the wine world – Brodie asked the pair about what missions in the world of beverages they are presently undertaking.

Jukes said he has committed himself in recent years to drinking fewer (but finer) bottles of wine. He therefore sought to create his own healthy, elegant alternative for periods between tipples. He said he had found data that showed a surprisingly large number of pub and bar visits in major cities such as London and New York City are dry. Giving the example of lunch meetings between professionals, he explained there are many occasions when alcohol isn’t the appropriate choice.

Looking to the history books for inspiration, he read about the haymaker’s punch – sometimes called switchel – a non-alcoholic drink of water, vinegar and molasses which people have enjoyed since the 1700s. Widespread in America by the 19th century, its being extremely refreshing made it a popular drink among workers on hayfields. Like this historic concoction, Jukes’s cordials use apple cider vinegar as their base.

An experienced traveller, Ellison spoke about creating Wanderlust Wine after attending wine school. His company strives to find exceptional, undiscovered wines around the world that may serve, with a high deliciousness-to-price ratio, as new favourites of people who love wine. His company imports and represents wines with such potential, building the brands of the producers behind them at the same time as his own.

Guests at the event enjoyed tasting examples of fantastic, artisanal wines from Wanderlust Wine. One standout was “The Pip” pinot noir. It is made from grapes grown in the Santa Maria Valley. Creating this wine had been a passion project for Au Bon Climat’s late winemaker Jim Clendenen, who is remembered for producing revered Californian pinot noir and chardonnay.

Interestingly, Jukes took issue with the title of the evening’s discussion, as it took for granted that there are such things as new modern classics in the wine world. To him, the term “classic” suggests age and a wine’s having gathered value over time; it may be applied only to those wines which, like classic novels, have stood the test of time. When identifying new modern classics, then, one should be able to predict a wine’s capacity to age well and gain its notoriety and value. But attempting to do so, Jukes argued, invariably results in fruitless debate.

Yet the pinot noir seemed through its complex taste profile – rich, magically fruity, dangerously smooth – to make its own argument. All those in the Penthouse who tasted it wholeheartedly loved it. This event’s discussion was engrossing, its tasting exceptional, and set a high bar for the final Penthouse Conversations that remain.

The remaining Penthouse Conversations will bring together experts for more thoughtful discussions of eclectic subjects. Look out for them on London City Island’s Instagram – @londoncityislandlife and on Eventbrite. We will be making a limited number of places available for these events for Brummell readers, and will be notifying you via Brummell newsletters and social.

Find out more about London City Island at londoncityisland.com