Five minutes with… Endo Kazutoshi

The lauded chef of Endo at the Rotunda in White City discusses the art of omotenashi, why attention to detail sets the omakase experience at his restaurant apart, and what he’d cook for the Emperor of Japan

Food and Drink 13 Apr 2022

Endo Kazutoshi, chef at Endo at the Rotunda

Endo Kazutoshi, chef at Endo at the Rotunda. Image courtesy of Great British Chefs

What can diners expect from Endo at the Rotunda?

We are an omakase restaurant situated on the top floor of The Helios building at Television Centre in White City, London. We like to deliver an immersive but approachable performance when presenting each dish from our ever-changing 20-course omakase menu to 10 guests at a time.

My philosophy is to keep things simple and try not to touch the ingredients too much but consider every tiny detail. The ingredients are always king. When creating a dish, I look to nature. What is in the garden? What is in the forest and the mountains? I do not look at passing trends or what’s on social media. The produce comes first. I smell it, taste it, then decide how to serve it. 

The award-winning architect Kengo Kuma designed a fantastic space to serve our guests. We serve our guests over a 200-year-old hinoki wood counter from a mountaintop behind the sacred Mitsumine Shrine in western Saitama Prefecture. The restaurant has beautiful views over west London and is a truly unique space in London. 

Wagyu beef with sancho pepper at Endo at the Rotunda
Wagyu beef with sansho pepper at Endo at the Rotunda. ©️FoodStoryMedia2021

What makes Endo at the Rotunda the ultimate omakase experience in London?

Attention to detail and our unique relationship with our suppliers. Our cuisine is based around produce at its best, chosen by me. We get our mazuma wasabi from near Mount Fuji, and it is the best you can get. Our soy sauce is a blend of two; both are organic and have aged for five years. We have one from Fukuoka, which is sweeter, while the other from Ehime Prefecture contains more umami; this provides the perfect balance for me. The recipe for our vinegar was my grandfather’s, so that is an ingredient that is very close to my heart. Once we receive the fish, we must taste it and consider how to prepare it. For example, some fish should be dry-aged rather than eaten fresh. When considering vegetables, nothing in our dishes is superfluous; everything has a place on the plate and is there for a reason. We always strive to do our best in every aspect of what we do.

Endo at the Rotunda has won a Michelin star for its superlative cooking
Endo at the Rotunda has won a Michelin star for its superlative cooking. Image courtesy of Great British Chefs

Can you explain the art of omotenashi and how it inspires your restaurant?

Our relationship with the guest is extremely special. The Japanese spirit of omotenashi is the art of hospitality rooted in empathy towards one’s guest. More than a style of service, it is a state of mind. You must showcase the genuineness of who you are, the best you, without hiding anything. It’s important to note how we speak and present ourselves to guests. Every detail should be considered – from music to our scent-free sanitiser. Do everything you can to create an immersive, multi-sensory dining experience. We cook from the heart, and the guest always comes first. The Japanese concept of “ichi-go ichi-e” is treasuring the unrepeatable nature of a moment. We want our guests to have a once-in-a-lifetime experience, even if they return. To summarise, it’s a pure, honest and sincere version of hospitality. That’s something I feel we do uniquely at the Rotunda.

The past two years have been particularly hard for restaurateurs. What have you learned?

I’ve learned that the human connection and sharing our philosophy with guests is so important. The feeling is second to none. You can’t work 20-hour days without putting your guests first. We’ve all learned a lesson about ego and how we should look after and treat one another. I also learned how connected we all are. The fisherman, the restaurant and the guest are a delicate circle of life worth treasuring. 

The pandemic has brought about a different attitude towards dining out. Guests don’t just want to be fed; they want the experience to be more personal. People have had a chance to think about and concentrate on what they want when dining out.

Omotenashi, the art of hospitality, is key to Endo at the Rotunda
Omotenashi, the art of hospitality, is key to Endo at the Rotunda ©️FoodStoryMedia2021

What ingredient can you not live without?

Rice! We only use the finest rice from Fukuoka Prefecture from our own dedicated farm. We import the water from the same area, ensuring the cooked rice has the perfect pH.

Who is your role model, and why?

My father. He was also a sushi master and taught me a lot about respect. Even in his old age, he was still striving to improve his sushi recipes and try new things. 

What are your biggest passions outside of food and drink?

Music – I love rock and punk rock. I used to play guitar in a punk band in Japan, but my master in Tokyo told me I had to stop because it could damage my hands! I also love to travel and discover other cultures. 

Endo at the Rotunda boasts impressive views over west London
Endo at the Rotunda boasts impressive views over west London. Image courtesy of ©️FoodStoryMedia2021

What is your favourite restaurant in the world and why?

I don’t have a favourite restaurant; that would be impossible for me to say. Last week, I went to Asador Etxebarri in the Basque Country on my day off. It was a unique, pure experience. The skill of the chef shows through.

Who, living or dead, would you most like to invite for dinner at Endo at the Rotunda and what would you serve them?

The Emperor of Japan, of course! I would serve them my full omakase as we do to our other guests. I like to think what we serve is fit for an emperor, as each guest is treated as such.

 endoatrotunda.com