Brummell recommends: Turul Project

The Hungarian restaurant and wine bar is a thrilling, original and delicious new addition to the London restaurant scene

Food and Drink 23 Jun 2021

Desserts at Turul Project include the delicious walnut dumpling and “Ludláb” chocolate torte
Goose liver with Tokaji, brioche, granny smith and cabbage
Monkfish in a paprika sauce and hare with bread dumpling and carrots
The beautiful "our garden"with vegetable textures, carrot puree and edible soil

The background

Turul Project is a new Hungarian restaurant, wine bar and deli that has just opened in Turnpike Lane. The restaurant started as a pop up and supperclub in 2018 and has finally found a permanent home to show off its considered and delicious contemporary Hungarian cooking and wine selection. Turul Project is headed by founder István Ruska and is run by a passionate young team who seem to love what they do and want their guests to be equally enthusiastic.

The space

Turul Project is based in an Art Deco building next to Turnpike Lane Tube station. It’s a long and light space with a deli at one end and a restaurant area at the other, which can seat up to 30 covers. Deep greens and clean whites are paired with natural wood for a calming interior that is unpretentious but chic and comfortable.

Turul Project is a new opening on Turnpike Lane
Turul Project is a new opening on Turnpike Lane

The menu

Turul Project is starting small-but-perfectly-formed with a view to expand their menu as time goes on. To start there was a selection of four Hungarian specialities including Pork terrine with radish, peppers and pickled onions; goose liver with Tokaji, brioche, granny smith and cabbage; fermented cucumber velouté with smoked trout, dill cream, caviar; and “Our Garden”: a mixture of vegetables with carrot puree and edible soil. The dishes are meticulously prepared to be as beautiful as they are delicious, a real feast for the eyes and the mouth.

Main courses include a hearty and rich beef cheek with pomme puree, lovage and garlic; monkfish in a paprika sauce with a dauphinoise-style potato made with cheese curds; hare with bread dumpling and carrots; and “Lecsò”, a vegetarian dish of an exquisite stuffed pepper. Each dish has been lovingly created and cooked to perfection. Desserts include an irresistible warm, soft and fluffy walnut dumpling, with a vanilla custard and walnut ice cream, and a delicate and flavoursome “Ludláb” chocolate torte with brandied cherries and sour cherry sorbet.

The staff at Turul Project are ready to suggest the perfect wine to accompany each course, which makes it an even more exciting journey of discovery as many are from Hungarian varietals rarely seen in the UK. A meal at Turul Project is a deeply satisfying experience that feels both familiar and new at the same time.

The bill

Three-course meal for two people including wine, around £100.

The verdict

Turul Project feels new and exciting, especially as its easy to see the passion and care behind everything they do. It’s thrilling to see an original take on Hungarian cuisine and wine being introduced to receptive Londoners.

Turul Project, 1 Turnpike Parade, London, N15 3LA,