The background

Once known as “Tin Pan Alley” for its abundance of music publishers, Denmark Street has long been a hub for the British music scene; the short street later became filled with recording studios and shops packed with glittering rows of guitars. Music magazine Melody Maker was started on Denmark Street in 1926, and the address has seen the likes of the Rolling Stones, Elton John and Black Sabbath recording there, while punks the Sex Pistols called it home for a stint, and David Bowie and Jimi Hendrix were regulars at its dives and cafés. Its musical heyday may now be mostly over, but the buzz is not all lost. Some instrument shops remain, and a new two-storey Rough Trade will be opening next month. Thirteen Ldn opened its doors – complete with wrought-iron serpents for handles – at no 1-3 in February 2023. Painted black, with wine-red awnings and a gothic font, the bar – owned by Soho’s five-star boutique hotel Chateau Denmark – maintains a rock’n’roll presence befitting of the legacy of its surrounds.

The space

The interiors here are anything but subtle. There is a Lynchian feel to the electric blue velvets and neon reds paired with chequered flooring, like you’ve stepped into Twin Peaks for the night. Every inch is covered in texture and detail, with bold, large-scale artworks that make for great conversation starters and glowing amber crystal balls dotted about.

The main bar seats 60 covers inside, and there is also an outside terrace that can accommodate 40 when the weather is playing ball, so it’s a decent-sized space.

Those in the know can steal away to Dial 8, the hidden subterranean bar within a bar that offers a velvet-clad booth perfect for a group, or low marble tables made for more individual chats. An ornate mirrored ceiling adds to the sense that you’ve snuck off to somewhere special.

In keeping with the location’s cultural heritage, a programme of DJs spanning a variety of genres, as well as live performers and cabaret events take place across the month. 

The food

Bars that offer food are not always known for the quality of said offerings, but Thirteen’s fare is up there. Japanese-inspired small plates are the main focus of the menu – think gyoza, sushi and sashimi. The idea is to order a few items for the table and then get stuck in together. We started with duck gyoza – which arrived perfectly crisp on the outside with a flavourful filling – and salt-topped edamame. The cocktail menu here is full of innovative choices (including virgin options), and we opted to wash down our first dishes with the aptly named “rocknroller”, (a refreshing mix of rum, Amaretto, pineapple, citrus and Double Dutch ginger beer, garnished with pineapple leaves for extra drama) and a seriously good spicy margarita (using El Rayo Plata infused with chilli for that bit of a kick).

For the larger plates, two inside-out rolls (of eight pieces each) were enough for two. A crispy chicken roll with kimchi and covered with fried shallots is a good option for those that prefer something uncomplicated, offering a good crunch, while the Thirteen signature roll of shrimp, snow crab, salmon, cucumber, spicy mayo, lime mayo, tobiko, unagi sauce and red chilli is a winning combination of tastes and texture. At this point we were comfortably sated, but there is the option of dorayaki (Japanese pancakes) or mochi in a choice of three flavours for a sweet culinary full-stop.

The bill

Starters, sushi and cocktails for two, around £70

The verdict

If you like your drinks with a side of the dramatic, Thirteen Ldn at Chateau Denmark is the perfect spot for catching up with friends. If a longer night is what you are after, fuel up and then stick around for the DJs to really get going.

Thirteen Ldn is open for lunch and dinner, Monday-Saturday; chateaudenmark.com/thirteen