The background

Chef Yuma Hashemi’s restaurant in Clerkenwell is named after a famous society butler for a Mrs Greville at Polesden Lacey. The house is now a National Trust property and when visiting, Hashemi heard the story of how in the 1920s Mrs Greville’s butler after finishing off too many of the guests’ drinks at a society soirée, was handed a note by the hostess saying, ‘You are drunk, leave the room at once’. In his inebriated state, the butler passed this note on a silver platter to a bemused Austen Chamberlain, a cabinet minister at the time. Today the restaurant retains the feeling of an intimate soirée, and a place to share stories. Hashemi, whose heritage is Iranian, started The Drunken Butler as a French restaurant with Persian influence and a strong wine focus, and with Sundays dedicated to Persian feasts. In June, he decided to focus full time on Persian feasts, serving a complete menu of Iranian dishes that change with the seasons.

The space

The Drunken Butler is a truly special place. Hashemi has created and curated the space to feel like stepping into the reception room of a house and it is filled with personal mementos and objects. Pictures of Hashemi as a child and of his family adorn the walls, as do posters of places that mean something to the restaurateur, bottles of great vintages and gorgeous artworks. It’s elegant and comfortable at once, as all great homes are. When first arriving at The Drunken Butler, guests receive a personal and extremely warm greeting next to the central glass cocktail bar, complete with exquisitely mixed concoctions served to guests in individual hip flasks. Each table seats four and there are around 20 covers in total, making it an intimate space – buzzy without being crowded. 

The food

The Drunken Butler is currently serving a Persian Summer Feast, a menu of several courses that are adapted and divined by the restaurant – guests are asked for their dietary requirements and fed accordingly, rather than being offered a menu. The meal starts with traditional snacks with plenty of moreish Iranian flat bread, followed by noon-panir-sabzi, a classic Persian appetiser including herbs, flat bread and cheese. To follow, The Drunken Butler served a selection of dips and salads including an irresistible smoky aubergine with tahini, spinach with a delicate garlic cream and a fresh cucumber dish complete with rose petals. The heart of the meal is the Persian classic of tahdig, saffron basmati rice that is slowly steamed and then cooked until it has an irresistibly delicious toasted brown crunchy edge. The tahdig is served with a fragrant and mouth-watering stew as well as barbecued chicken, cauliflower or fish. Save room if you can resist finishing every last bite of the tahdig, for a granita palette cleanser and then a delectable dessert of barberry ice-cream with a peanut crumble and rhubarb.

The menu is served alongside a selection of Hashemi’s favourite wines, all from Europe except for one bottle from South Africa that he can’t resist. The wine pairing is £80 and absolutely worth it to experience the very personal way Hashemi approaches matching vintages to his dishes and his love and knowledge for wine. 

The bill

Persian Summer Feast is £85 per person, and a wine pairing is £80 per person. The chef’s table is £120 per person.

The verdict

The Drunken Butler offers a unique and truly special experience exploring the culture and passion of Yuma Hashemi in a way that is personal and fun. It’s a magical spot for a date, dinner with friends or family and the chef’s table was recently voted one of the best in the capital by Evening Standard Reveller. The Persian feast is a great focus for the restaurant, providing something more diners won’t have had before both in terms of cuisine and experience.

thedrunkenbutler.com