The background 

When it comes to food, there’s something about the word “fusion” that might typically induce a slight wince, a twitch in the corner of the mouth, perhaps a raised eyebrow or two. Done badly, a cuisine mashup can be an (ahem) interesting culture clash where opposing flavours gatecrash the tastebud party. But when it comes to Tandoor Chop House’s latest collaboration, the result is something truly memorable.

Infusing Tandoor Chop House’s Indian roots with the fragrant notes native to Thai dishes, the latest special on the aforementioned host’s menu comes courtesy of Chet’s – one of the (relatively) new names to know on the London food scene. Launched at The Hoxton, Shepherd’s Bush in January 2023, Chet’s is the brainchild of Kris Yenbamroong, the creative force behind the cult natural wine and Thai food hangout, Night + Market in LA. 

The space 

Taking residence in Tandoor Chop House’s Covent Garden home, the restaurant is just as comforting as the food itself. Softly lit from the glow of the open kitchen and small enough for a buzzy atmosphere, dark wooden-panelled walls meet original concrete ceilings and glimpses of industrial metal – the perfect embodiment of the traditional culinary heritage and modern flair inherent in the dishes.

The food 

Neither Tandoor Chop House nor Chet’s are strangers to fusion – perhaps why the meeting of two flavour powerhouses here is so seamless. Inspired by traditional North Indian communal eateries and the classic British chop house, Tandoor combines the smoky depth of its namesake oven with prime cuts of meat, perfectly spiced marinades and equally warm ambience. A culinary voyage in a different direction, Chet’s lends the punchiness and fiery flavours of Thailand and its surrounding regions to the pure comforts of the classic American diner – think fried chicken, smash burgers and loaded fries, all given the south-east Asian treatment via sticky umami glazes, pickled accompaniments and a good whack of chilli, obviously. 

But it’s the special in question we were here to try: a superbly citrusy Thai-style pork-topped naan. The dish starts with a base of Tandoor Chop House’s trademark naan bread, fresh from the oven and irresistibly pillowy. Topped with Chet’s marinated lemongrass and kaffir lime pork mince, followed by pickled fennel, cabbage and swede, it’s generously topped off with spicy aioli. Paired with Tandoor’s signature Lamb Salli Boti – tender pieces of lamb shoulder in a rich, lightly spiced tomato stew – alongside the bowl of surprises that is the chickpea chaat, we left with our bellies full and culinary minds welcomely broadened.

The bill 

A generous sharing order for two, including a cocktail each, is around £100. The perfect starter or side to your main feast, the Tandoor Chop House x Chet’s naan is £9.50.  

The verdict 

Addictively moreish and the perfect level of tongue-tingling heat, a taste of this collaborative plate sees you arrive at a completely new gastronomic destination. Available only until 30 June 2024, its limited run only makes us more eager to return for round two. 

Tandoor Chop House, 8 Adelaide Street, London WC2N 4HZ; tandoorchophouse.com