Brummell recommends: Llama Inn London

The Shoreditch rooftop restaurant Peru-ving that South American cuisine is here to stay

Food and Drink 31 Jul 2024

Llama Inn London menu

The background 

London has been in the throes of a Peruvian love affair for a while now. An enamourment reaching far beyond a certain adopted bear, we’re not a city short of a good ceviche or two. So in an ever more saturated scene, as always, it takes something truly special to stand out. Enter Llama Inn London, taking us on a culinary journey from South America to Shoreditch, unexpectedly via New York. 

Having opened in September 2023, Llama Inn London is already being met with high praise by critics and hungry customers alike. And it’s no surprise, given it was born as the sister to founder Juan Correa and executive chef Erik Ramirez’s acclaimed NYC original – an eponymous Brooklyn hotspot that’s earned a Bib Gourmand, a spot on The New York Times’ 100 Best Restaurants list 2023, and a James Beard Award “Outstanding Chef” finalist placing for Ramirez since its opening in 2015. 

It’s here that Llama Inn London sets itself apart. In the spirit of the OG, inspiration is drawn from Ramirez’ Peruvian-American background, paying homage to the diverse culinary heritage of Peru and its traditional dishes, reimagining them through a forward-thinking New York lens. 

Llama Inn London chef
Llama Inn London’s executive chef, Erik Ramirez

The space 

Having first opened its doors in September 2023, Llama Inn London is heading into its first summer season in style, newly opening a stunning outdoors rooftop space that’s sure to prove the envy of its east London contemporaries. South-facing for maximum sunshine, it seats up to 50 across plush sofas and banquettes, and offers uninterrupted views of the city skyline. Not exactly Machu Picchu, but impressive nonetheless. 

Should inclement weather decide to literally rain on your parade, the outdoors is seamlessly taken inside, where lush greenery, sink-into-it seating and raffia touches keep the illusion of laid-back Latin evenings. If it weren’t for those wide, dazzlingly bright skylights that reveal London’s moody skies, they almost had us fooled.

Llama Inn London interior
Inside the Shoreditch rooftop restaurant

The food 

This is a menu that perfectly reflects sunshine-dappled days on the rooftop; think fresh, zesty, bright flavours that leave longer-lasting impressions than that of the fleeting Great British summer. Here you’re almost transported to the bustling streets of Lima – if the gentle lapping of waves were, in fact, distant sirens, and the heat of the sun’s rays came courtesy of terrace heaters, that is. 

Freewheeling, upbeat and modern, the just-launched summer menu elevates expected Peruvian signatures with all-new twists: lamb empanadas crowned with aji chimichurri, slow-cooked chicken anticuchos (a traditional street-food skewer) dressed in shiso vinaigrette, and super-fresh cod finished with yuca cream and aji mirasol (a chilli paste whose name rather poetically means “kissed by the sun”). These dishes join tried-and-tested favourites such as the scallop, yuzu kosho and nori ceviche (a must-try, take it from us), and the wow-worthy seabass, baked whole in banana leaf. 

When it comes to the drinks menu, Llama Inn London wets your whistle with a curation that hones in on pisco and Latin American spirits. Wines are sourced from small, independent growers with a biodynamic focus, while the cocktail list is spearheaded by the unmissable pisco sour – supersized for summer in sharing jugs to serve six people. 

Ceviche at Llama Inn London
The signature ceviche at Llama Inn London

The bill 

Dinner for two and a couple of alcoholic drinks each will cost around £130. 

The verdict 

We came for the rooftop, but we’re staying for the food. A celebration of the traditional and modern in a laid-back yet sophisticated setting, Llama Inn London is a must-visit no matter the weather – the ice-cold cocktail slushies promise that. 

1 Willow Street, London EC2A 4BH; book here