The background

After honing his skills – and earning a Michelin star – as head chef at London’s Tamarind restaurant, Peter Joseph went it alone to open Kahani in 2018. Tucked away just off Sloane Square in Chelsea, Kahani (which means ‘story’ in Hindi) brings together Joseph’s experiences from cooking with his mother in Tamil Nadu to working in both British and Indian fine-dining kitchens.

The space

Kahani’s exterior is modest, but what it lacks in signage, it makes up for in ambience. Downstairs, you’ll find a cosy space with a window right into the kitchen, velvet-covered chairs and dried floral arrangements that give it a plush, modern appeal without being overly fussy. The relaxed atmosphere invites guests to enjoy food at their own pace, while an intimate private dining room with seats for 10 offers the perfect place for special occasions. 

The menu

Kahani has à la carte, bottomless brunch and tasting menus, as well as weekend roasts and plentiful vegan options. From the à la carte menu, it’s hard to resist ordering the entire small plate offering – there are nine to choose from and all present such attractive flavour combinations. The soft-shell crunchy crab comes decorated with Mangalorean spices, a classic kachumber and smoked tomato chutney, while the star anise-coated seared scallops arrive on a bed of pepper chutney and barley khichdi. Both are delicious, but the scallops, in particular, warrant a return visit to the restaurant. 

Next is the Kerala fish curry with tender halibut, and the achari gosht – the diced lamb in this dish is cooked perfectly; it’s simmered with onions, tomato, curry leaves and spices and is unquestionably high-quality meat. In fact, it might just be the best curry I’ve tried in London. Sides of naan and rice can often feel like afterthoughts in restaurants where curry and meat is the main focus, but here, they are cooked with a lightness that complements the main dishes instead of supplementing them as filling foods. The Gruyère-filled naan is a distinct favourite. Elsewhere, a side of ajwani okra exemplifies the proper way to serve this notoriously difficult to cook vegetable, with tomatoes and a gentle covering of sauce.

Kahani’s food menu is a lesson in the art of curating Indian ingredients and its cocktail list is no different. The zingy sweet modhu combines bourbon, lemon juice and honey water with red chilli to create a refreshing hum of spice, while the kahani royal, topped off with champagne, blends sloe gin with pomegranate and lemon juice to sweet and very drinkable results. 

The bill

A three-course meal for two with cocktails is around £150.

The verdict

Kahani’s food is defined by Joseph’s lighter approach to cooking, which uses less sauce than other iterations of Indian cuisine and showcases dishes from every region in the country. Expect beautiful, balanced flavours delivered through marinated and grilled meats and considered ingredient pairings in every corner of the menu. All this makes for a delightful and well-rounded dining experience that is heightened by the warm atmosphere. 

kahanilondon.com