The background

Founder of Fish Game, Roberto Costa began his career in his family’s restaurant in Genoa, Italy. In charge of the washing-up and occasionally trusted with serving minestrone soup, he has since built up an impressive CV that by far transcends his humble beginnings working in the Genoese kitchen. Harnessing his passion for gastronomy, the restaurateur has seen success with his popular steak restaurant, Macellaio RC, which has drawn him from Italy to the UK to expand the chain.

Now, Costa has taken on a different culinary challenge with Fish Game, which opened in London’s Canary Wharf in July. His new restaurant acts as his love letter to seasonal British produce, putting fish and game at the centre of every dish.

The space

Juxtaposing the glass jungle of Canary Wharf, Fish Game’s surroundings feature vintage furniture and rustic industrial chandeliers for a cosy and rural feel. Dinner and drinks are enjoyed at dark-wood and glass tables paired with elegant green leather seating. Eye-catching pieces, such as tree-stump tables and aquatic wood carvings are impressive, but the true star of the show is the open kitchen that proudly displays formidable charcoal ovens.

The menu

Executive head chef Matthew Colk, alongside Roberto Costa, has designed a thoughtful yet beautifully simple menu.

On Brummell’s visit, we start with the mouth-watering tigella bread with offal, rabbit, lemon and parsley gravy, while the chilli squid with fried cavolo nero is every fish fan’s dream. If you are craving something lighter, however, the menu also offers small plates such as trout on toast and rabbit croquettes, which will whet your appetite for the main course.

For this, we choose the Fish Game classic, steamed mussels with venison nduja, served with a rich, creamy sauce and crusty bread. For a lighter option, the smoked duck breast with a sweet-and-sour salad is a delightful palate pleaser. The duck is delicately sliced and served alongside a stir-fried salad. This pairs perfectly with sides such as sautéed courgette and long-stemmed broccoli or seasoned potatoes.

We round off our meal with the lemon tart topped with strawberries and mint, which provides a wonderful finishing note.

On recommendation, Brummell orders a couple of zesty margaritas. Head bartender, Samuele Lombardi, proves his mastery by creating a subtle twist on the classic cocktail. There is also an extensive wine list of more than 200 labels on offer, focusing on small artisan producers from across the globe.

The bill

Three-course meal for two with cocktails, £160.

The verdict

Boasting a fantastic menu and attentive front-of-house staff, Fish Game is truly a delightful dining experience. Perfect for a meal out with your friends or a romantic dinner for two, celebrating the best of British produce has never been so stylish.

14 Water Street, London E14 5GX; fishgamerestaurant.co.uk