WORDS
Lucy Frith
The background
Anyone who’s sought out the perfect fry-up in west London will have heard of Sam’s Kitchen. With outposts in Hammersmith, Chiswick and the newly regenerated Brentford area, Sam and his team of head chefs, and some of the finest front of house staff you’ll ever meet, have worked hard to create the perfect local eatery whether you’re looking for a quick coffee and a pastry, a delicious brunch or a delectable dinner, and – in a post-pandemic world – that’s no mean feat. Rest assured though, a Sam’s experience never disappoints and the new Thursday-to-Saturday Supper Club at its beautifully intimate Chiswick outpost is no exception.
The space
Sam’s Kitchen is just the sort of place you might walk past on an evening and immediately want to go in. Peachy awnings frame the warm glow of satisfied diners inside enjoying each other’s company and enthusing over plates of artfully presented food in an intimate and relaxed dining room. If you’re lucky enough to get a table, you might be seated at one of the buttery fawn banquettes or at a table under the Instagrammable orb lights in the centre of the restaurant. The walls are dotted with funky artwork and faded mirrors that make everyone look their best, adding to the homely could-stay-here-all-night vibes.
The food
The Supper Club menu is an absolute bargain at £55 for three scrumptious courses. When it comes to culinary excellence, discerning diners know that simple is often best and even though the choice has been removed, this weekly changing set menu (there is a vegetarian version) from head chef Abbie Hendren is definitely worth it, especially with dishes such as Portland crab with yuzu and white soy dressing or saddle of venison with Pomme Anna on offer.
When Brummell visited – spiced plum bellini in hand – we were delighted with our mouthwatering cured Scottish steelhead trout starter – paired with bergamot, green apple, cucumber and the most satisfying bites of tempura shiso, before moving on to a succulent treacle-cured aged Hereford beef rib cap with pickled walnut, roast allium and celeriac.
The portions are generous, too, and each course is perfectly paired with a wine from the restaurant’s cellar. Continuing to make good use of the British plum season, we enjoyed a glazed Victoria plum tart with mascarpone cream for dessert – a fine slice of tangy deliciousness that left us completely satiated. Bravo!
The bill
The weekly changing set menu is £55 per person, plus an extra £28 per person for wine pairing.
The verdict
Sam and his team’s dedication to championing the finest ingredients (via his local suppliers at Chiswick House & Gardens, Wright Bros and HG Walter) has really paid off. We all want a local caff that delivers good food every time and you just know that you’re in safe hands with Sam’s. We cannot wait to see what next week’s menu from the talented Chef Hendren has to offer and, luckily, we don’t have to break the bank to enjoy supporting our new favourite local.
Dinner at SK; Sam’s Kitchen, 59-61 Turnham Green Terrace, Chiswick, London W4 1RP; samskitchenw6.co.uk