Nestled on the corner of a bustling street in Soho is the modern British bistro, Nessa. Located on the ground floor of new members’ club 1 Warwick, Nessa offers guests a bohemian environment equipped with a mouth-watering menu. Having garnered a wealth of experience in restaurants across London, the prominent London chef, Tom Cenci, has curated a menu of classic British dishes that champion seasonality with an inventive and playful twist.

Brummell caught up with Cenci to discuss his career as a chef, and what guests can experience on a visit to the restaurant:

What can diners expect from Nessa?

Nessa is a vibrant, informal bistro serving a menu of classic dishes that champion seasonality and play on British cuisine. The twists and nods to British culture make it different from what a traditional bistro is.

Is there a signature dish at Nessa that customers must try?

Either our celeriac carbonara, black pudding toast or the carrot cake for dessert. All are plays on classic dishes, but have been done in the Nessa way, and have become our signatures.

What inspired the name “Nessa” for the restaurant?

Nessa itself is named after Vanessa Bell, the sister of Virginia Woolf; they were part of the Bloomsbury Group, who were forward-thinking artists that embraced the avant-garde styles of continental Europe and broke down barriers of social norm. We want to think we can pay homage to this with our style of food and menu.

During your career you have had the opportunity to travel, working in critically acclaimed restaurants all over the world. What did this experience teach you? Have these experiences influenced your approach to Nessa?

Be kind and look after your staff – it goes a long way. Hospitality has had a bad rep for far too long, and we need to change the culture. Being there and looking after your team is one of the best things you can do.

What is the best piece of advice you have ever received in your career, and why?

During my first head chef role a mentor of mine, Herbert Berger, gave me a framed copy of the speech The Man in the Arena by Theodore Roosevelt. It’s too long to recite here, but it’s about a gladiator fighting a lion and being criticised for it. The premise is: as long as you try your best, that’s all that matters.

Who is your role model, and how have they influenced you in your work?

It’s hard to choose a single person, mostly it’s the chefs I work with; you can never stop learning, and each person you work with can teach you something new no matter what their role is.

What single ingredient can you not live without, and why?

It has to be tomatoes. They are so versatile, to make a simple tomato sauce, a ragù, or tomato salad – the varieties are endless, and I love trying to do different things with them.

What’s your favourite restaurant in the world, and why?

Most years I try to visit Italy, where my wife’s family is from, and there is a small town called Crabbia. There is a restaurant there called Osteria San Martino. It’s tucked away in the back streets and is very romantic. The food is as “real Italian” as you can get, and I love going back as much as possible.

What are your biggest passions outside of food and drink?

I’m really into fitness at the moment. I’ve always liked most sports, but running seems to help with my general wellbeing and mental health. I think it’s really important to find something to take your mind off work.

86 Brewer Street, London W1F 9UB; nessasoho.com