Discover
Watches and jewellery
12 September 2022

Let there be light: Urwerk UR-100V UltraViolet

Words: 
Nicholas Ross
Watches and jewellery
12 September 2022

Let there be light: Urwerk UR-100V UltraViolet

Words: 
Nicholas Ross

Urwerk’s violet model playfully explores the boundaries between the perceptible and imperceptible

The first syllable of haute horlogerie brand Urwerk is derived from the ancient Mesopotamian city of Ur – home to the innovative Sumerian people who created one of the world’s earliest great civilisations. When they weren’t busy inventing the first writing system, the Sumerians established units of time based on shadows cast by their monuments, and the sexagesimal system we use in measuring and understanding time to this day. As this etymology suggests, Urwerk timepieces revolve around limitless innovation. The brand has just released a watch devoted to this central part of horology and its own ethos.

The UR-100V UltraViolet is symbolic of the boundary between the perceptible and imperceptible, as ultraviolet marks where the visible colour spectrum ends, and the non-visible light spectrum begins. The company’s co-founder and chief designer, Martin Frei, says, ‘The UR-100V UltraViolet is about this exploration of the limits. Our UltraViolet conveys something mystical, it’s a hue that sits on the border of a dimension we call colour.’

Symbolising such boundaries between light and darkness, the seen and unseen, the minutes hand disappears when the 60th minute is reached. Just as the Sumerians used shadow in gauging time, units of distance and time share an enlightening ratio between them, and the minutes hand then reappears as a kilometre counter that indicates the 555 kilometres the Earth spins every 20 minutes. The hours and kilometres units aptly light up at night in blue and green. The edge of the face also has marks displaying the Earth’s revolution around the sun (its orbital distance per 20 minutes being the 35,740 kilometres shown).

This self-winding model uses the new calibre 12.02, itself an innovation playing on notions of visibility: for greater legibility than previous movements offered, three orbiting and rotating satellite hour markers, which rest on a sanded and ruthenium-treated brass carousel, are situated closer to the minutes scale. With a water resistance of 30m, the watch has a 48-hour power reserve and a violet DLC case with sapphire crystal glass.

urwerk.com

Sign up to our newsletter and receive curated edits of the best of Brummell.

No spam. No waffle. Just the good stuff.

* indicates required

Like what you’re reading?

Sign up to our newsletter and we’ll send you curated edits of the best of Brummell – landing in your inbox every week.

Follow Brummell on Instagram

Think of it as your daily scroll through the best of Brummell.

Follow Brummell
Christmas party season is upon is, which means dusting off our best suits and getting dressed up to the nines. ⁠
⁠
If your formal wardrobe is in desperate need of an upgrade, you can rely on the new Code collection by @corneliani_official. ⁠
⁠
The Italian house combines craft with dandyism for a collection that’s ideal for making an impression, as the accompanying campaign – shot on location @eastnor_castle – showcases. ⁠
⁠
“A good suit doesn’t shout; it reveals itself quietly, through balance, fit and the confidence it gives the man who wears it.” Commented Corneliani style director Stefano Guadioso Tramonte. “That’s true, modern elegance.” ⁠
⁠
#menswear #corneliani #fashion #brummell