For decades, the byword for Breitling’s pilot’s watch was “Navitimer”, with the Chronomat largely relegated to a sidenote in its successor’s history. That changed in 2020 when some bright spark at Breitling decided that the Chronomat was due a relaunch. There was something for everyone – chunky 44mm chronographs at one end and elegant 32mm three-handers at the other, with most sizes in between. The only thing missing was a 40mm, and, given this is a pilot’s watch, therefore intended for travel, there were no GMTs. That has now been rectified. The Chronomat Automatic GMT 40mm has been introduced, which follows the slimline elegance of the smaller-cased models swapping out the chronograph function for a GMT. Breitling has also added three new gemset Super Chronomat 38s to the collection, and the Super Chronomat 38 Origins, an ethical first for the brand.

‘With this release, we’re rewriting the definitions of the Chronomat and Super Chronomat and giving these pieces a character all of their own,’ said Breitling CEO Georges Kern. ‘But, then again, this is a collection already known for pushing boundaries.’

Despite tracing its roots back to 1942 when the Chronomat was first launched, it was the 1984 re-emergence that garners the most attention. This was the year Breitling partnered with the Italian national aerobatics team, the Frecce Tricolori, creating a timepiece specifically for its pilots. This watch developed a cult following of its own, single-handedly saving Breitling’s bacon and kick-starting the mechanical watch revival.

Fast forward to 2022, and we have this sleek addition to the collection. It’s the ideal time to launch a GMT – the world is opening up again, travel for pleasure is a possibility once again, and it is that attitude to which this Breitling pays tribute. This is a versatile timepiece. It has a sporty sophistication and chameleonic ability to work with everything from shorts to smarter ensembles. The dial colours, ranging from a rich green to a modernist white are interesting but subtle, with a tone-on-tone 24-hour scale that allows the red GMT hand to pop. The retro Rouleaux bracelet – extremely fashionable during the 1980s and 1990s – has a beautiful play of polished and brushed steel, while the onion crown is a clever nod to its functional beginnings. Powering it is the Breitling Caliber 32, which is used on GMTs across the brand’s collections, and the watch itself has a 200m water resistance, as a travel watch should, giving you the option of poolside as well as deep sea.

Also launching are three new Super Chronomat 38s in silver, mint green or powder blue, set with sizeable lab-grown stones, with the option of a very ’80s 18-ct gold two-tone Rouleaux. Should the two-tone be too much and the steel not enough, there’s also straps in rubber Rouleaux, or an alligator leather strap, perfect for colour coordinating. The other Super Chronomat Automatic 38 Origins is a first for Breitling – a timepiece with a responsibly sourced case and lab-grown stones set into the bezel, both of whose origins are backed up by a blockchain-backed NFT, which marks the start of Breitling’s commitment to use only responsibly sourced gold and lab-grown stones across all the brand’s portfolio by 2025.

Supporting the collection is an all-new squad comprising four sporting stars – Man City and Norway international player Erling Haaland, professional basketball player Giannis Antetokounmpo, Olympic snowboarder Chloe Kim, and American footballer Trevor Lawrence – all of whom, given their globe-trotting professions represent the spirit of travel inherent in the Chronomat’s origins. As a collection, the Chronomat has been the one that has almost been on the periphery, appearing and disappearing as fashions change. With this new iteration, however, it’s taken its rightful place at the centre of a 21^st century Breitling.

Chronomat Automatic GMT 40, £4,700; Super Chronomat Automatic 38 from £7,900; breitling.com