The background

The Collective Canary Wharf is a towering glass building that is home to the largest co-living space in the world. There are 705 ‘flexible residences’, and members can check in for anything from one night to 12 months. Mthr (pronounced ‘mother’) is the space’s in-house restaurant and bar, with a relaxed area where guests can work while enjoying a coffee, and is open to both members and the public.

The space

Sitting on the 20th floor, Mthr offers panoramic views of London, in a space that continues the ‘home from home’ ethos of The Collective but without feeling too casual. A large bar featuring a floating art piece above it holds court at the centre of the room – despite competing with such clear views of the London skyline. A sophisticated palette of neutral colours flows throughout the dining area, with rattan furniture adding a natural element and heavy earthenware dishes offset the colourful dishes perfectly.

The menu

Executive head chef Arnaud Delannay has worked in the hospitality industry for more than a decade, most recently as head chef at Vivi at Centre Point. His menu is full of global culinary influences, with a focus on communal eating. Akin to enjoying dinner around the table at home, diners can mix and match, small, large and family-style sharing dishes depending on the size of your group (or appetite). The camembert croquettes with cranberry jam arrive hot and crispy, with an excellent crunch, while the duck rillette with Espelette pepper on grilled sourdough is simple but wonderfully moreish. The five spices roasted pork shoulder is an excellent main for sharing. Each element arrives separately, allowing you to construct your own bao buns by hacking away at a perfectly seasoned pork shoulder with a specially presented knife, brushing on your preferred ratio of hoisin sauce, and garnishing from a choice of pre-sliced herbs and vegetables, bringing a fun and interactive element to the dinner table. If (and that’s a big if, because the bao buns are particularly filling) you have room for dessert, the banoffee parfait with hazelnut brittle is a classic sweet finish.

The drinks

Mthr’s house cocktail menu has been created by drinks expert The Rum Runner, and includes an intriguing mix of flavours and spirits. The Tokyo rose (gin, yuzu sake, lemon, rose, lychee and egg white) is sweet but refreshing, and comes topped with tiny rosebuds for a pretty touch, while the Eastern promise (vodka, lemongrass, ginger and kaffir lime leaf) is a reviving hit of flavours, complete with a physalis on the side of the vintage-style cocktail glass for added effect. For off-menu cocktails, the bar is well stocked to cater to most requests. There is also a small but considered wine list, as well as a variety of mezcal, whiskey, bourbon, rum and draught beer.

The bill

Sharing plates and cocktails for two, £80

Summary

Brummell visited on a Friday evening and there was quite a buzz by the time we left. This would be a great place for a client coffee or lunch with a view, or a post-work drink and dinner for City workers.

Mthr, 20th floor, The Collective, 20 Crossharbour Plaza, Crossharbour, E14 9YF; mthrlondon.com