The background

The late Joël Robuchon, who passed away in 2018, is credited with reinventing modern French cuisine, and at one time held 32 Michelin stars across 13 countries, making him the most decorated chef in the history of the Michelin Guide. Following the closure of Covent Garden’s L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon earlier this year, two new sites, restaurant Le Comptoir Robuchon and deli Le Deli Robuchon, have opened in Mayfair.

The space

Designed by interior design studio Thurstan, everything about the space is elegant, but without veering into stuffy territory. There is an Art-Deco influence, with statement ceiling lights, brass and burnt-orange furnishings offsetting a commanding marble bar counter, perfect for pulling up a seat and looking glamorous over an aperitif. The tableware is all refined yet understated – large white dishes feature delicate patterns – and is accompanied by French Christofle silverware.

The menu

Led by executive chef Jeremy Page, who worked with Robuchon at the original L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Paris, the menus here focus on sharing plates of simple, flavourful fare that is painstakingly presented. It is clear that every detail – each drop of sauce and sprinkle of greenery – is carefully considered. Diners can choose between La Saison, a selection of contemporary, seasonal dishes, and Les Eternels, a collection of Robuchon’s world-renowned classics – including his famous purée mashed potato, which is a bowl of pure comfort, and something worth returning for just to make sure the first time wasn’t a dream. In between silently warring over the mash, try l’encornet (squid, artichoke, tomatoes and chorizo) for a fresh and zesty start – thin slices of squid are given an incredible texture thanks to delicately striated edges, with the chorizo adding a smoky touch. L’artichaut (artichoke, vinaigrette, Bayonne ham) arrives as an expertly balanced tower of varying flavour arrangements, or for something richer, la canette (duck, pickled red cabbage, spices) is two pieces of duck with perfectly crisped edges, accompanied by a classic orange sauce. For dessert, la tatin (ginger, apple, caramel) is a subtly sweet finish, while le baba (rum baba, bourbon and vanilla cream) is the boozy celebratory send-off this memorable meal demands.

The drinks

The extensive cocktail menu offers a story behind each drink, with many a twist on a classic as each entry takes inspiration from the people, dishes, personalities and ingredients that shaped the food industry from the 1500s until today. Of course, the wine list is full of excellent options too, and the Domaine Vincent Dureuil-Janthial Rully blanc 1er Cru Le Meix Cadot is a fantastic pairing for the artichoke, while the Domaine Vincent Pinard Sancerre rouge 2017 is a great red for duck and lamb.

In summary

A variety of sharing plates, desserts and cocktails for two, £185

Summary

This is a place to mark occasions. You will want to give each dish your full attention, so it’s not the place for a quick dinner before heading out, but rather a spot to while the night away.

Le Comptoir Robuchon, 6 Clarges Street, London W1J 8AE; robuchonlondon.co.uk