Lionel a Marca, CEO of prestigious haute horlogerie house Breguet, is perhaps an unusual business leader. With the practical skills of both artisan and management, he can claim to know the watch industry from the inside out. Having studied at a Swiss watchmaking school, he worked in different companies of the Swatch Group on repair and restoration, then became interested in production. He became involved at more executive levels dealing with workflow, quality, analytics, timing, profitability and deadlines during 20 years working with Blancpain, before taking the helm at Breguet a year ago as CEO. Brummell caught up with him among the roar of classic car engines at this summer’s London Concours, with which the brand has a partnership.

Breguet has been involved with the London Concours for some years now. Can you explain the relationship with classic cars?

Historically, Breguet worked with the automobile industry, specifically Ettore Bugatti to create a special dashboard clock for the Royale, and also with Lamborghini, creating an exclusive clock for the Diablo model. The watches we have designed for these collaborations are as elegant as the cars they accompany. Furthermore, one of the undeniable links between watchmaking and the automobile is micromechanics, which applies to both.

How do you define the “essence” of Breguet?

Pure watchmaking art and pure invention. Our founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, was a genius – both technically and in business. There’s Breguet, and there are others.

What are the design hallmarks of a Breguet timepiece?

There are certain codes, including the famous hands and numerals, but Abraham-Louis Breguet never created the same watch twice or created codes that were too strict. He always looked for user friendliness and a balanced design, and we continue to acknowledge that codes are to be transgressed occasionally, to create the best possible design.

Abraham-Louis Breguet is known for the technical breakthroughs he invented. How is the house continuing the spirit of innovation?

So many firsts! He patented the tourbillon in 1801, a major feat, and the perpetual calendar, the spring chime, numerous others… and not to forget, he created the first woman’s wristwatch, in the 19th century. So many of his inventions are still being used today. We are still filing patents for innovations. He was a designer, an astronomer, a mechanical genius and a commercial genius. He was also a commercial innovator: he invented crowd funding, to develop his “subscription” watch models.

Can you describe how the new Tradition Tourbillon 7047 embodies Breguet’s codes and makes them contemporary?

The Tradition collection pays homage to the beauty of the mechanism of “subscription” and “tact” watches. It is distinguished by appearing bridges, wheels, escapement, barrel and the other components that are generally found under the plate. Also fascinating is the symmetrical construction of the bridges as well as the refined decoration.

The Tradition Tourbillon 7047 is both traditional and contemporary. When we introduced a tourbillon in the Tradition collection we wanted a large one in a not too big (41mm) case. I wanted the chain to be visible, like on a bicycle. But the one in this watch is small, with each link blued by hand. The technical feats involved are on display, and owners can see that they have a work of art on their wrist. But it’s a challenge to make: they are hand finished, with no room for error. The slightest defect is visible; each watch is checked many times. It’s either perfect or it’s not. This is the art of Breguet: the importance is in the details.

What are the passions in your life? Do you collect classic cars?

My garage isn’t big enough. I enjoy looking at them and am inspired by them. I used to ride motorbikes. My passion is collecting sword sticks from around the world. Also, I collect comic strips – I’ve been a total fan since the age of six. And little decorative boxes. My wife says enough is enough as I’ve filled the house with them.

Breguet is partnering with FriezeLondon, 12-16 October; breguet.com