Brummell Recommends: Mortimer House Kitchen

Former L'Anima head chef Lello Favuzzi takes the helm with a combination of traditional Italian flavours and Middle Eastern influences

Food and Drink 28 Mar 2019

Herb tortelli with smoked burrata and noisette butter
Burnt carrots, yoghurt, tahinin and fennel pollen
Showstopper: roasted pineapple, salted caramel ice cream, pistachio crumb
A selection of small, medium and large plates cater for all tastes
Lello Favuzzi and the team busy in the open kitchen

The background
Housed in a six-storey Art Deco building in the heart of Fitzrovia, Mortimer House members’ club was opened in 2017 by Guy Ivesha, CEO of lifestyle concept organisation Maslow’s, with a philosophy that celebrates work-life balance, entrepreneurship and genuine, creative communication. This March, after a decade as head chef at one of the capital’s favourite Italian restaurants, L’Anima, Lello Favuzzi took the helm at Mortimer House’s ground-floor restaurant, Mortimer House Kitchen, which is open to the public.

The space
Designed by New York architects AvroKO, the restaurant is bright and spacious with a bespoke marble-top bar running down one side and a mixture of relaxed lounge seating and comfortable Josef Hoffmann-style dining chairs. The mid-century interior and neutral colour palette flow throughout the main dining space and the magnificent glass-ceiling conservatory area, which has a calming aesthetic with exposed brickwork and a selection of large plants. The main focal point, however, is the central open kitchen, which looks like a large country kitchen and feels very much a part of the dining space – adding to the relaxed homely feel.

The relaxed mid-century dining room at Mortimer House Kitchen

The menu
Favuzzi’s menu celebrates bold Italian flavours with a Middle Eastern twist, and is divided into small, medium and large plates to suit a variety of tastes and appetites. We started with some house warm baked rustic bread with tahini and crushed tomato dip, followed by the sweetest burnt carrots with yoghurt, tahini and fennel pollen, and a charcoal cauliflower with za’atar. Who knew the flavour of these classic vegetables could pack such a punch? The herb tortelli with smoked burrata was one of the shining stars of the meal – the perfect combination of smooth/crunchy textures, and creamy/tart flavours – while everything from the succulent organic Shetland salmon to the grilled octopus and spinach shakshuka with hen’s egg from the large plates section, was a treat for the senses. Favuzzi’s dessert offering is a generous selection, comprising Italian classics such as tiramisu and an indulgent mille-feuille, but it’s the show-stopping roasted pineapple with salted caramel ice cream and pistachio crumb that really stood out. Sweet, creamy and nutty, it’s one of the most unique desserts I have ever tasted.

The bar
Aligning with Mortimer House’s vision for a better and healthier way of life, the bar offers a selection of low abv cocktails, non-alcoholic “thirst quenchers” and juices alongside its special G&T offering, and a generous list of champagnes, wines and spirits. We opted for the totally tropical Major Barbara (koko kanu, coconut water, lime), the refreshing Director’s Folly (Kamm & Sons, prosecco, soda, elderflower) and the Citronella di Luna thirst quencher (lemongrass, basil, apple, aloe vera, lime) – an invigorating punch after the rich and delicious cuisine.

The bill
Lunch or dinner with drinks from £130 for two.

Summary
Harmonious, relaxing and luxurious with a cool, comfortable decor and an innovative, wholesome selection of dishes to suit every type of diner: Mortimer House Kitchen brings a taste of the Mortimer House philosophy to the masses.

37-41 Mortimer Street, Fitzrovia, London W1T 3JH; mortimerhouse.com