Mildreds: it’s easy being green

Discover recipes from the new vegan cookbook from beloved London vegetarian restaurant, Mildreds

Food and Drink 15 Feb 2018

Mildreds' vegan cookbook

According to earthday.org, eating vegan one day a week has the same impact on the environment as taking your car off the road for five weeks. And vegetarian restaurant Mildreds is making it easier with its new vegan cookbook.

With recipes such as butternut squash and pistachio börek, and dark chocolate truffles, it is proof that eating green can be just as indulgent.

Mildreds Vegan Cookbook by Daniel Acevedo & Sarah Wasserman (£25, Mitchell Beazley), out now. And discover three recipes from the book below…

Mildreds trifle
Mildreds trifle

Raspberry, almond, sherry and saffron trifle

SERVES 6–8

200g (7oz) self-raising flour

160g (5¾oz) caster sugar

60g (2¼oz) ground almonds

1½ tsps baking powder

250ml (9fl oz) soya milk

100ml (3½fl oz) light oil (such as groundnut or sunflower)

1 tsp good-quality vanilla extract

FOR THE CUSTARD

1 1/2 litres (2¾ pints) almond milk

180g (6¼oz) caster sugar

2 tsps good-quality vanilla extract

pinch of vanilla seeds

pinch of saffron threads (about 10)

80g (3oz) cornflour

TO ASSEMBLE

125ml (4fl oz) Pedro Ximénez sherry

1 batch of Berry Compote, cooked version, made with raspberries, cooled

2 batches of Coconut Whipped Cream

50g (1¾oz) toasted flaked almonds

10 raspberries (optional)

There is nothing quite like a trifle to round off a special meal with all its glistening layers of sponge, creamy custard, bright fruit compote, cream and toasted nuts. The raspberries make it a summery dessert, but you can use any seasonal fruit you like – we’ve made a lovely spiced cranberry version and one with poached peaches. To cut down on labour on the day, you can make the sponge and raspberry compote in advance. If you prefer, you can forgo the compote and just use a layer of fresh berries, though it does create a real depth of flavour.

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Line a 23cm (9-inch) round cake tin with baking parchment.

2 Put all the dry ingredients into a large bowl and mix together with a small balloon whisk. Measure out the wet ingredients into a jug and again mix together with the whisk. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry mixture and mix until well combined, then pour into the lined cake tin. Bake for 30 minutes until well risen and the sponge springs back to the touch.

3 Remove from the oven and leave to cool for a few minutes in the tin, then turn out on to a wire rack and leave to cool completely.

4 To make the custard, put all the ingredients, except the cornflour, in a pan and heat gently, stirring frequently, until warm. Mix the cornflour with enough cold water to make a smooth paste. Add to the almond-milk mixture and cook for a few minutes, stirring, until thickened. Remove the pan from the heat. You can strain the custard through a sieve to remove any lumps. Leave to cool.

5 To assemble, cut the sponge into slices 2.5cm (1 inch) thick and use to line the base of a glass trifle dish, 20cm (8 inches) in diameter with a flat base, evenly. Pour the sherry evenly over the sponge, then spoon over an even layer of raspberry compote. Leave in the refrigerator for 20 minutes or so to settle before carefully spooning over the custard. Cover and leave the custard to set in the refrigerator for a few hours.

6 Before serving, pipe the freshly whipped coconut cream on top of the trifle. Alternatively, add in small spoonfuls and spread out evenly across the top, then heat the spoon in hot water and use it to smooth the surface of the cream. Finally, scatter with the toasted almonds and decorate with the raspberries if you like.

BERRY COMPOTE

GF (gluten free)

SERVES 4

NO-COOK BERRY COMPOTE

260g (9¼oz) berries (about 2 punnets)

50ml (2fl oz) agave syrup (or other syrup)

75ml (5 tablespoons) water

pinch of vanilla powder (optional)

COOKED BERRY COMPOTE

260g (9¼oz) berries (about 2 punnets)

100ml (3½fl oz) water

pinch of vanilla powder

squeeze of lemon juice

60g (2¼oz) caster sugar

NO-COOK BERRY COMPOTE

1 Blend half the berries with the remaining ingredients in a blender.

2 Strain the mixture through a sieve to remove the seeds.

3 Combine with the remaining berries.

COOKED BERRY COMPOTE

This cooked version will give you a stronger-coloured compote and one that will keep for longer – store in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 3–4 days.

1 Put half the berries with the remaining ingredients in a saucepan and bring up to a simmer. Cook gently for 10–15 minutes, stirring frequently, until the berries have totally broken down and the liquid is glossy.

2 Take the pan off the heat and leave the compote to cool a little and then blend with a stick blender.

3 Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve to remove the seeds, then mix with the remaining berries.

COCONUT WHIPPED CREAM

GF

SERVES 4

400ml (14fl oz) can full-fat coconut milk or 2 × 160ml

(5½fl oz) cans coconut cream, chilled in the refrigerator preferably overnight or at least for a few hours

50g (1¾oz) icing sugar

pinch of vanilla seeds (optional)

1 Open the can of coconut milk and scoop off the thick cream from the top (usually around 200g/7oz) into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Do the same if using creamed coconut, although there will be less liquid.

2 Sift the icing sugar into the bowl and add the vanilla, if using, then whisk on a fairly high speed until the mixture comes together, being careful not to overwhip.

Mildreds miso aubergine
Mildreds miso aubergine

Miso-glazed aubergine

This sweet and salty Japanese classic, nasu dengaku, is super-easy to prepare and makes a distinctive side dish. Alternatively, turn it into a main event by serving it with a fresh mango and soba noodle salad. Use gluten-free miso and tamari for a gluten-free option.

SERVES 4

2 aubergines

2 tbsps blended oil

(half vegetable and half sesame)

FOR THE GLAZE

1 1/2 tbsps red or white miso

1/2 tbsp tamari (gluten free) or soy sauce

100ml mirin

½ tablespoon caster sugar

1 tsp finely grated fresh root ginger

TO GARNISH

1 spring onion

1 tsp toasted black or white sesame seeds

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6.

2 Cut the aubergines in half lengthways and score the cut sides in a cross-cross pattern, cutting almost all the way down through the flesh but without piercing the skin.

3 Heat a griddle pan or cast-iron frying pan over a medium-high heat. Brush both sides of the aubergines with the blended oil, making sure you give the cut sides of the aubergine a generous coating so that the oil is absorbed into the flesh.

4 Cook the aubergines for about 2 minutes on each side to char them slightly. Transfer them to a baking tray, cut side up, and bake for 20–25 minutes until the flesh is fully cooked and soft.

5 While the aubergines are cooking, prepare your garnish. Cut the spring onion into 3-4 batons, slice in half and then finely slice them lengthways. Add them to a bowl of chilled water and refrigerate until ready to serve.

6 To make the glaze, heat the miso, tamari or soy sauce, mirin and sugar in a small saucepan, bring to a simmer and whisk well to form a smooth paste. Cook for 3–4 minutes, adding the ginger at the last minute. Remove from the heat and set aside.

7 Remove the aubergines from the oven and brush the tops generously with the glaze, letting it seep into the flesh. Increase the oven temperature to 240°C/475°F/Gas Mark 9 or heat the grill to a high heat. Cook the aubergines for a further 3-5 minutes until the glaze begins to bubble and caramelize slightly.

8 Drain the finely sliced spring onions and use to garnish the aubergines, along with the sesame seeds, before serving.

Mildreds tofu and white bean sausages

Smoked tofu and white bean sausages

A staple every year on our winter menu, these white bean, smoked tofu, apple and fennel sausages are light and fresh (see photograph overleaf). Served with fluffy mashed potatoes, sautéed spinach and our pear Cider Jus (see page 250), this is perfect food for picking you up during the colder months. The firm tofu must be Chinese-style fresh tofu, and the best place to buy fresh tofu will be your local Asian supermarket. The Clean Bean brand made in London will work well. Unfortunately, any other tofu won’t work for this recipe.

MAKES 8–10 SAUSAGES; SERVES 4–5

1 fennel bulb, cored and finely diced (including the stalks)

1 onion, finely diced

2 large garlic cloves, finely diced

3 tablespoons light olive oil for roasting, plus 1½ tablespoons for the sausage mix

½ tablespoon fennel seeds

325g (11½oz) pack Chinesestyle fresh firm tofu, diced

100g (3½oz) smoked tofu, diced

400g (14oz) can white beans (such as cannellini, haricot or butter beans), drained and rinsed

120g (4¼oz) Sausage and

Burger Base Mix (see below)

350g (12oz) dessert apples, grated

20g (¾oz) gram flour

20g (¾oz) chives, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

100ml (3½fl oz) vegetable oil, for frying

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6.

2 Toss the diced fennel, onion and garlic in the 3 tablespoons light olive oil along with the fennel seeds in a bowl, then spread out on a baking tray and roast for 15–20 minutes until fully cooked. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. Leave the oven on.

3 Using your hands, crumble the tofu to a paste into a large bowl and mix with all the remaining ingredients, including the remaining 1½ tablespoons light olive oil (but excluding the vegetable oil). Transfer the mixture to a food processor and give it a quick pulse for 30 seconds to bring it together.

4 Heat up a frying pan with a little of the vegetable oil over a medium heat and fry off a small portion of the sausage mixture, then taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary.

5 Roll the remaining mixture into small sausages about 8cm (3½ inches) long. Add all the remaining oil to the pan and heat, then fry the sausages over a medium heat for 6–8 minutes, turning them frequently, until they are golden brown. Transfer to a baking tray and finish cooking in the oven for 10–15 minutes.

6 Serve with the mashed potatoes, sautéed spinach and cider jus.

SAUSAGE & BURGER BASE MIX 

MAKES 500G (1LB 2OZ)

400g (14oz) stale white bread

or sourdough bread, cut into

small cubes

½ teaspoon salt

100g (3½oz) vegetarian suet

This simple mixture is the secret to perfect-textured veggie sausages and burgers (see our Smoked Tofu and White Bean Sausages, page 81). We have specially developed this formula to bind the vegetables and pulses together and add texture without imparting any unwanted additional flavours.

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), Gas Mark 4.

2 Spread the bread cubes out on a baking sheet, sprinkle with the salt and bake for 25–30 minutes until the bread has dried out completely and is crispy.3

3 Remove from the oven and leave to cool.

4 Mix with the suet until well combined, then store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for 2–3 weeks.